John Ferarra was just a part-time worker at the Brattleboro co-op when Henry Tewksbury (author of “The Cheeses of Vermont: A Gourmet Guide to Vermont’s Artisinal Cheesemakers”) asked him to work fulltime at the cheese counter. That was 11 years ago. Henry was a loving, caring, supportive mentor and he believed in local cheesemakers. He taught John everything about cheese. Sadly, after John had worked with him for 5 years, Henry died unexpectedly at the age of 79.
Ordering the Cheese
Thanks to the efforts of Henry, John says he has a direct relationship with most of his Vermont producers. He simply calls them at their farms to order.
He also buys some cheeses through distributors and some come by UPS. There is even a company with a refrigerated truck that picks up and delivers any quantity for a flat rate.
Fortunately, John is able to keep his inventory low so the cheese is fresh when he sells it. With artisinal cheeses, there are no “sell by” dates. John’s assistant, Joy Carder, keeps track of the packing dates. She has worked out an elaborate rotational schedule.
When it’s time, they open the wrappers and check the cheeses. Sometimes they plein off all the sides which have been in contact with the wrapper. Other times, they discount the cheeses or put them out as “tasters” for the customers. They keep the walk-in cooler at 38F.
Recently, the store brought in Isabella Figs and Almond Cake from Spain to pair with a Gruyere or a creamy goat spread. They also sell Fox Hollow Mustard which he recommends touching lightly on any cave-aged hard cheese. Their Bella Pera jams mix well with chevre or may be spread between a cracker and soft, fresh cheese. John’s favorite is the Pear Spread with Acacia Honey.